Our second generation of Air Boxes and intake ducts for the FZR400RRSp are made from pre-preg carbon. This is significantly lighter and stronger. This also allows us to get the correct finish for airflow on the inside of the duct and a much better outer skin finish.
We have also redesigned the exit from the duct to the air box; this has resulted in approximately 14% improved airflow.
These notes are intended to assist in the fitting of the duct/box.
Suggest once the carbs are removed the inlets are covered with circles of duct tape. Parts posted in here are a bad thing. This has been tested!
The studs that protrude through the frame from the coil cradles require shortening, leaving just enough thread for the nut to be fitted, or the cradles can be removed and the coils cable-tied down to the frame with sticky backed foam between the coils and the frame.
If the two centre rocker cover bolts are removed, assembly is made easier. Depending on coils and leads used sometimes the coils must be taken out of their cradles to allow enough Ht lead to reach the plug caps. Once cables pipes and wires have been routed out of the way (note: water system bleed pipe), and a hole drilled for the fuel line (Approx. 10 mm), the duct can be fitted. Holes must also be drilled for the throttle/choke cables. Fitting NGKSD05FM (supplied) racing plug caps to the inner plugs makes the routing of the Ht leads easier.
Fit the duct first, by passing the front of the duct through the forks from behind. The duct will go through far enough to allow the larger end to be offered over the rocker cover. Now refit Ht leads/coils
The box must be pushed over the inlet rubbers such that the box seals and that the groove in the rubber is sufficiently above the box for the carb clamps to be refitted. (Some heat with a hot air blower can help make the box less brittle) We use cable ties on the inlet rubbers, and adjust them so that the carbs are a tight fit into the rubbers. Make sure the joining tab on the cable tie lines up with the lump on the inlet rubber, and remove any excess cable tie so it does not foul the throttle linkage. The screws to fix the box to the duct can then be put in. Once this has been fitted successfully remove and refit the box. The best way to get a perfect seal between the box and duct is to use a thin line of silicone sealer on the duct and a thin coat of oil on the box. This will give a perfect seal that can be removed and refitted.
The duct should just touch the bottom yoke if it is low the rad needs to be fitted so that it pushes the duct up.
Put a thin strip of tape or sticky foam on the top of the rad so it doesn’t wear through the duct.
Refit the fairing, the top of the duct should match with the fairing below where the headlight would normally be. If it doesn’t the fairing is fitted incorrectly. One other option is to cut the top off the duct at the front going back 20/30 mm and allowing the bottom of the fairing to become the duct top edge.
A semi circle should be cut into the fairing about 100mm back from the front of the bike to allow the bulge in the top of the duct to fit into it. (Our fairings come with this already done).
The duct was designed to accept either the, curved Kit radiators or the std ones. If a kit rad is used the radiator requires a gentle curve in the top to leave room for the duct; I use a hide or rubber mallet. This will not damage the cores it will simply crush the fins between the cores. The cooling will be reduced here but will still be fine either side. Do not cut this section out, it is a pain to reseal the cores and you have lost 3 cores for cooling.
If heated sufficiently with a hot air blower it softens slightly, it is then able to be bent/moulded if held in the new position until cold it will retain the new fit. This is particularly useful in fitting the front of the duct to the same shape as the fairing.
The tank requires foam stuck across the underside to line up with the back of the air box. The stainless dam has to be fitted at the front; foam also has to be fitted around the periphery of the box so that it creates a seal when the tank is lowered into position. A short piece of foam needs to be fitted underneath the front of the box in the middle, below the foam that seals the top to the stainless dam in the tank . this is to support the box.
To fit the air filter (supplied) stretch the air filter foam (coarse side down) over the bellmouths and trim the sheet to the outer edges of the airbox. This is best done after the tank etc has been fitted. When the tank is lowered, it should trap this foam between the tank and airbox. Drill two holes either side of the intake at the front so that plastic number plate screws can be fitted to clamp the front of the duct to the fairing. Number plate screws are used because they are flexible and will break in the event of an off rather than trashing the duct. The air box must be sealed to work properly. The intake can touch the front mudguard under heavy braking, which is not a problem; it should spring back to its normal shape when the brakes are released.
Length of perimeter foam- 50"
Length of foam for under rear tank- 11.5"
Number plate Bolts.
Tank Dam £18.00
Bemsee Rules allow these if a std air box is refitted inside with Unlimited holes in it. Carbon one available